Stay in Pombia — a lively and authentic Cretan village in the heart of the Heraklion district’s southern plain. Just 5 kilometers south of Mires and on the road to Kali Limenes beach, Pombia (also spelled Pompia) is a place where everyday village life still thrives, far from the rhythms of tourism.

With around 1,000 residents, Pombia is a working village — filled with families, elders, schoolchildren, and farmers. In the village center, you’ll find tidy houses, tree-lined streets, bustling squares, and traditional kafenions and tavernas where locals gather. Wander off the main road and you’ll spot well-kept homes alongside older, time-worn buildings — a visual history of the village’s past and present.

The largest square in Pombia is home to two grand churches, a World War II memorial, and a monument honoring Michalis Korakas — the village’s most famous son, born in 1797. A legendary resistance leader during the Ottoman period, he became commander of twelve eastern provinces of Crete and left a lasting mark on the island’s history.

Pombia’s patron saint is Agios Georgios (Saint George), and one of the main churches bears his name. But it’s the smaller, older churches tucked into the village’s side streets that reveal the real soul of the place. One intriguing spot near a small white cross-shaped church appears at first to be a chapel — but is actually a historic water source, featuring a sculpted cistern with lion-head spouts. It may date back to Venetian times or even earlier, and includes an inscription and an image of Agios Georgios.

Though modest in size, Pombia is full of spirit, memory, and everyday warmth — a perfect stop for travelers looking to connect with Crete beyond the guidebook.

© Hans Huisman